How to Rate a Panama Hat: A Shopper’s Guide to Quality, Grades, and Weave Counts

Panama Hat Guide

Panama hats aren’t just fashion statements—they’re woven expressions of cultural heritage and centuries-old craftsmanship. But how can you tell if a Panama hat is truly high quality? This guide breaks down how to rate a Panama hat using PPI (points per inch), artisan grading systems, and craftsmanship details like el remate, so you can shop confidently and knowledgeably.

What Is a Panama Hat?

Despite their name, true Panama hats are made in Ecuador, not Panama. They’re crafted from Toquilla straw, a lightweight, flexible fiber from the Carludovica palmata plant. These hats are handwoven, most famously in Montecristi and Cuenca, and have become symbols of timeless elegance and Ecuadorian tradition.

Understanding PPI (Points Per Inch)

One of the most important indicators of a hat’s quality is its PPI (points per inch). This measures how many straw intersections (or “points”) exist in a single square inch of the weave. A higher PPI generally indicates a finer, more intricate weave.

For example, a Panama hat with 90 PPI is considered mid-range quality, known as a “Fino” grade. These hats offer a refined appearance while remaining durable and relatively affordable.

PPI Breakdown:

  • 50–80 PPI: Entry-level; visible weave pattern, coarser texture
  • 90–120 PPI (Fino): Tighter weave, ideal for everyday wear
  • 200–250+ PPI (Fino Fino): Extra fine; smoother and more elegant
  • 300+ PPI (Super Fino/Ultrafino): Luxury pieces, nearly fabric-like texture

Hat Grades: 7, 10, 12, 15

In addition to PPI, many Panama hat vendors use a numeric grading system. While not globally standardized, these grades correspond generally to weave fineness:

  • Grade 7–10: ~80–100 PPI; good quality with a clear weave
  • Grade 12: 200+ PPI; finer weave, smoother texture
  • Grade 15+: 300+ PPI; exceptional craftsmanship, collector-quality

A hat with 90 PPI typically falls around Grade 10, offering quality without the luxury price.

What Is El Remate?

A sign of skilled craftsmanship is el remate—the finishing point of the weave, usually located at the edge of the brim. It’s where the weaver ties off the final strands, often seamlessly and nearly invisibly. While the crown center is the weave's starting point, el remate marks its end and indicates artisan precision.

Main Points to Remember

Rating a Panama hat involves understanding PPI, grading systems, and details like el remate. A hat with 90 PPI and clean finishing is an excellent mid-range option combining authenticity, style, and value. Whether you're buying your first hat or adding to your collection, knowing these details helps you select a piece honoring its cultural roots and elevating your wardrobe.

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